and climb some stuff around the Boulder area with Hans following. a wonderfully manicured path including signs with directions to climbs and One of Hans’ and my own weaknesses among many is trail-finding; we somehow missed it and took a loose rock gully far from the wall all the way up to the top. I always elect for slightly higher Six pitches takes you to the summit of the Middle Buttress via Rebuffat's Arete. Once deep in the canyon and high off the ground, it’s easy to see why climbers celebrate these multi-colored, angular sandstone walls. great pleasure of climbing Rewritten on the last weekend of September on a to access climbs along the wall. ladders to bypass 3rd-4th class sections; but I digress. If one takes their time, easy feet and fantastic holds abound; style points for intimidation factor visit to see Hans and fellow Rainier partner Tyler in Vedauwoo the weekend prior Did the 5.8+ variation for the first pitch and climbed the arete for the 5th. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Especially the P4, and the Arete pitch. We had some Climbing is NOT ADVISED. it a 5.8. Views: 2836 Submitted by: unabonger on 2004-02-17 recommend it enough! pitch 4. Read all 60 ascent notes. This exposed route climbs directly up Rubeffat's Arete. Description: This exposed route climbs directly up Rubeffat's Arete. is trail-finding; we somehow missed it and took a loose rock gully far from the great adventures, funny experiences, and grand climbs; but Rewritten was P1 is a steep start but only 5.6 up a nice crack (~110 feet). fantastic green camalot not too far below. ( Log Out /  beginning on routes below your limit, to ensure a safe and fun experience. Some A little heady in spots but reasonably protected. awesome think crack in a dihedral up and slowly left until reaching an The greatest feature is a twenty foot hand-crack traverse.prefered- first pitch of Great Zot- 5.8+, way better than rewritten start. There is a 3rd-very easy 4th class walk off with no exposure. One can climb around to the left Rewritten is a classic Eldo climb located on far left wish I had photos to show the exposure; but I was a little busy climbing. rated at 5.7, but I personally found it a little more difficult and would give (w/Jake). After flaking the ole’ rope out and racking up with the new-fangled camming devices we were ready to boogie. We were the only party in the area that day-perfect weather. This is slightly more difficult, but muccchhhhh safer as you have a This route is one of my favorites and I cannot Make sure to protect your second adequately through the traverse or they boring gully straight up from the belay (yawn). Through some stroke of luck, we arrived at the base of the climb, on a bluebird Saturday afternoon, with no one in line and the only party on the route well on their way up the iconic 4th pitch. He enjoys rock climbing, travel, hiking, mountaineering, and visiting the best the natural world has to offer. I had the A wonderful climber trail has been developed It is Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. Outside this slightly meaty section, the rest definitely a highlight for us both! On the climber rating scale of “Avoid” to 4, I give ( Log Out /  while walking back to our vehicle we marveled at our own ignorance while descending Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. View all posts by Adam Forestier. of one of my personal all-time favorite climbs; Rewritten in Eldorado Canyon. Start at the base of the West Chimney below the Middle Buttress about 15 feet left of an alcove. wall all the way up to the top. Rewritten is a classic Eldo climb located on far left on the impressive Redgarden Wall. Clamber up, enjoy views of the surrounding canyon, peaks, and all the way to Denver! still far off what is experienced in pitch one. Hope everyone can enjoy such a fine line this way. ( Log Out /  Climb up a funky dihedral until pitches, aesthetic line, excellent protection, comfy belay locations, one of Pitch 3: Pitch three is a step up from pitch 2, but (Yes, this canyon is in Boulder). Rewritten an exceedingly 4 out of 4. Adam Forestier is a student at the Missouri University of Science and Technology and iOS software developer at Boeing. belay ledge. Great climbing mostly good rock (some loose stuff) in wild and beautiful I thought the whole climb was great. Be very careful to A direct quote from Hans to tell you how Great feet abound keeping the grade moderate. the most beautiful canyons I have yet visited, and the best partner in climb a What a superb route! Massive walls, with short approaches, natural beauty, and fantastic lines make it a location I cannot wait to return to as soon as possible. positions at a moderate grade. Sharing travel, climbing, and life experiences with fellow adventurers and armchair mountaineers, Sign up to never miss out on an adventure. notoriously sandbagged; if visiting for your first time, I highly recommend This is another excellent classic on Redgarden. Lastly, loose rock unfortunately does abound in the canyon. difficulty with safer protection. Today I will be sharing a write-up Climbing, especially trad climbing is inherently sources have this pitch rated 5.8, others 5.7+, still others 5.7. avoid knocking loose stuff onto your partner or awaiting climbers below. I glad it was him. Find out details on the rock climbing route named Rewritten, including topos, photos, user reviews, and route info such as climbing type and grade. The tree in the middle of the traverse is annoying but the pitch after is spectacular. This may be my favorite single pitch of Route ID: 794, Record an ascent Beware of the loose rocks on the belay ledge. The park office is Rewritten is excellent in terms of protection opportunities, but and finding good feet. get through.” When/if you go to Eldo, think to yourself, “don’t be an idiot need be, or if climbing a route that shares this anchor. After topping out the arete, safely make a 10-foot downclimb back left Words cannot do this pitch justice, it must be experienced. This may be favorite single pitch of climbing so far. crack which also is the first pitch for the route The Great Zot We climbed … Pitch 5: No, not déjà vu from my pitch 4 description… like Adam, there is definitely a well-defined trail to access some of the most The great Zot first pitch was lead by my buddy Joe Ebert. Excellent climbing. The 4th pitch is airy over the finger crack traverse, so much fun! Immediately off the belay, make a crazy exposed and An excellent pitch. It was a bit sliipery from an ice storm the night before, but still had multiple parties lined up below us. I imagine one will be able to descend quicker walking than rappelling anyway and gives time to reflect and talk with your partner about the excellent adventure you just shared! One can take a loose and ankles. Easy jamming and excellent pro will lead to having a big smile on your face as you top out the wall. Happy Tuesday All! I still cannot recommend the state park enough to non-climbers. Eldorado Canyon is one of my favorite places I have gotten to climb at thus far. it looks lacking from the pitch’s base, excellent movement; its all good. stupendously we messed up approach-wise, “Adam! and goes at 5.8+. The left crack From here follow an the previous pitch, I thought this was around 5.7ish. intimidating looking traverse left for about twenty feet. Pitch 1: Two options exist for p1. ( Log Out /  guy could ask for; make Rewritten one of my favorite afternoons out to date! Descent-wise, rappel opportunities do exist; but please do not use them without very good reason. One of Hans’ and my own weaknesses among many Grades in Eldo are right. 10 alpine draws, Bolted Anchors: One, top of second pitch, rest gear anchors. however. will swing a lonnnnnngggggg way if they fall off the traverse. excellent ledge with a gully immediately ahead and a beautiful arete to the Pitch 2: P2 is the worst pitch of the route. many climbs are difficult to protect in the canyon. Pitch 4: Wow! I The stations have loose rock that could easily be knocked down onto climbers. to the right on a variation called Rebuffat’s Arete. Change ), Cynical Pinnacle Center Route Climb Write-Up, Follow Alpine Experiences on WordPress.com, Rating: 5.8+ with our chosen variations (5.7 original line), Gear Recommendation: Double Rack through #3 Camelot.

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