If you are wondering, where is the “0” position, it’s on the top, where jacks are. Maybe you or someone else have a tip for me on how to fix this. Firstly, I marked a jack position inside a case – just drew a round outline of a socket pushed against the facet. Reply You may already noticed, as PCB is soldered onto pot and jacks terminals, its design had to be very careful and precise. Source selection is via the small switch by the volume control knob. 1. From this perspective jacks fit perfectly – but in reality they are fixed a bit to high in relation to the potentiometers body. The size of thr finished device is 50 x 50 x 45 mm and the weight 90 grams. Start drilling pilot holes, gradually increase the hole to full size 5. I was about to solder my passive volume control together, when thought came – the circuit is indeed very simple and I probably didn’t make any mistake, but what “if”? This Audio Mixer mixes multiple audio inputs to a single audio output, with knobs to control the volume of each channel. Thanks again, Andrea, ok so I'm going to do a 3 channel I have 4 pot's I'd like to use one as a master volume for all 3 inputs, my question is do I put my resistors before the last potentiometer which will act as a mains volume for all channels or do I put the resistors after the mains pot or both, how to change the one RCA input into mic input thank you...need reply asap, Reply At this point I knew only where knob will be placed and that’s all. So if you have a tone control and adjust that in one input, all the other inputs will change as well. This was going to cost me a lot of trouble. But at least it looks almost as good as I imagined . Photograph 3: Rear - DIY Stepped Attenuator Volume Control. Your email address will not be published. At first, I was going to use a PCB laminate with hand-drilled mounting hole as a potentiometer holder, but after a while I thought it will be much simpler to print a whole bracket on a 3D printer. Unfortunately it's just a bit faulty. Wouldn't the resistors cause a volume drop? If all of your sources have their own volume control, like a phone/laptop would, then that may be ok for you. was going to cost me a lot of trouble. Is it correct that the underlying hypothesis for this analog "sum" unit is that almost no input current should be drawn from the output device - i.e. As everything worked fine, I soldered the resistors sealing my passive volume control forever. Then I used slightly larger drill and small round file to join holes where possible and removed the irregular interior of the circle. I etched PCB slightly longer than planned, then ground it, to ensure very close fit on the side of case opposite to the sockets. It wouldn’t be a problem if I planned to just wire them, but my plan was more sophisticated (as long as you can call a plan of connecting 5 parts together sophisticated). Atari Punk Console – the DIY synth classic, Eurorack module DIY tutorial (1) – drilling, 1x dual Alpha Taiwan 100 kB (linear) potentiometer, RV16A01F-41-15R1-B100K, 1x SCI RN-114A potentiometer knob (similar to Tayda Electronics. The purpose of my passive volume control build was simple – I just needed an analog regulation of headphones loudness my laptop was missing (and nothing feels better than a potentiometer knob in your hand). The interesting thing is, it uses linear potentiometer along with load resistor to get smooth increase in volume level. Required fields are marked *. As usual, I used photo positive method (Bungard laminate with light-sensitive coating + UV light exposing). This mixer is passive, meaning it requires no external power. Passive volume controls are quite expensive for what they are, usually just a dual audio taper pot with a pair of jacks or RCAs. I hope it was an interesting journey, which will inspire you in some amazing DIY projects! Glad you shared this despite its simplicity! 4 years ago. The purpose of my passive volume control build was simple – I just needed an analog regulation of headphones loudness my laptop was missing (and nothing feels better than a potentiometer knob in your hand). (A very conveniently thing to say if you are sick of spray painting). I measured the distance from jacks center to the enclosures top and marked it with the line of the other side of the case. Unit won’t be unplugged frequently anyway. This way I got the exact position of the jacks on the enclosures outside, so I could drill a hole supporting them (the fitting is very tight). Really love how the knob is set into the case. The problem appeared – how to mount a potentiometer? Of course, I forgot to wear protective gloves and the remaining edges were sharper than I’ve expected. The paper prototype just slip onto the terminals without any friction, which was my goal. The execution and design is great. Die Kanäle beeinflussen sich leider gegenseitig von der Lautstärke. And the “input/output” marking are on the bottom on the case. It will be independent of opening imperfections, unfortunately look less sleek with a narrow collar (~2 mm) and low (~0,1 mm) around the knob. I stuck to your circuit diagram only 2 input channels more.The Geheuse is by the way an old German Telekom DSL Router. have you connected the GND for the input and output jacks to the same GND as the potentiometers? light-sensitive coating + UV light exposing). It wasn’t perfect, but acceptable. It was important as I needed the knob shaft to be in the center of drilled opening. unlike me doesn’t hurt itself during work. And forgive me, it will be more a photostory than a proper technical post. The schematic of passive volume control includes only 5 main components: dual linear potentiometer, 2 resistors and 2 mini jack sockets. Share it with us! The knob and rotation resistance feels classy. Wire input jacks to pots. I etched PCB slightly longer than planned, then ground it, to ensure very close fit, on the side of case opposite to the sockets. This mixer is passive, meaning it requires no external power. As I am not the hot glue guy, and I am moving somewhere into “I hate wiring” region, I decided to design a PCB to connect all parts (yes, I also think it is an overkill). Firstly, I marked a jack position inside a case – just drew a round outline of a socket pushed against the facet. glue sockets and wire all the components, or…. Tools: -- Soldering Iron and Solder -- Dremel or Drill -- Wire Strippers Parts: -- 1K ohm resistors x8  -- 10K ohm logrithmic double-ganged potentiometer x4    (* explained below) -- RCA panel mount input jacks x10 -- project box or other enclosure *About the Potentiometers: A potentiometer or 'pot' is the twisty knob that will act as a volume control.

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